Interview by William Chan
In an exclusive interview last week with “bing sutt”* owner Chan Iat Seng at his café in the city centre, he told the Post about his passion for Japanese culture and the bakery scene. Chan, an engineer by profession and bakery owner by passion, said, “I’ve always been fascinated by Japanese culture and enjoyed the diverse bakery options in Japan. Their creative fusion pastries and the cultural appreciation for trying new delicacies were often lacking in Macau. This inspired me to create something similar here.”
After resigning from his engineering position, Chan attended bakery courses in Shanghai and opened his first bakery in Ilha Verde district in 2022, specialising in Japanese-style pastries.
However, the journey was not without challenges. As a first-time business owner, Chan discovered that running a bakery involved much more than just baking. He faced logistical hurdles and learned that customer perceptions of distance can be misleading. “Although Ilha Verde is close to many areas on the peninsula, people often view it as being far away because it’s a relatively new area. This made it difficult to attract both tourists and local customers.”
In light of these challenges, Chan contemplated closing his shop in 2024. Fortunately, he became aware of Sands China's programme of revitalising Macau’s city centre, particularly Rua das Estalagens (草堆街). Chan then diligently worked on his proposal, which ultimately gained the integrated resort operator's backing.
Sands provided Chan significant funds for the shop’s renovations and rent. “To be honest, their goal was to support our venture without the pressure of repayment,” Chan noted. “They wanted us to take the risk without the stress of a loan, acknowledging that even if we didn’t succeed, it wouldn’t cause us any burden.”
In his new endeavour, Chan transitioned from a bakery to a ‘bing sutt’ café, aptly named 翻撻冰室 Café Fantart (meaning “to start over” in Cantonese). “Bing sutt is the polar opposite of upscale bakeries, which are on the rise while ‘bing sutt’ options are dwindling. Initially, I aimed to attract tourists since this area is close to San Ma Lo [Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro]. However, I am pleasantly surprised by the local residents who also flock to my café, particularly elderly people living nearby.”
To distinguish his business from other “bing sutt” establishments and to maintain his affinity for Japanese baking, Chan retained Japanese baking techniques while incorporating traditional local items like egg tarts and toast. “I haven’t heavily promoted my unique approach yet, but I plan to leverage social media to reach a broader audience,” he said, also pointing out that in Macau very few restaurants bake their own pastries, Café Fantart being one of them.
Chan expressed gratitude to Sands for their ongoing support, underlining, “Their marketing team regularly visits to provide advice on strategies to enhance my business. They say they will also distribute coupons for my shop at upcoming Sands events, which is both helpful and generous. They’re not asking for anything in return; we don’t even have Sands promotions at our café, and very few customers know our background.”
Moreover, Chan acknowledged the government’s commitment to supporting small businesses. For him, improving infrastructure is crucial for creating a thriving environment for entrepreneurs. “The streets here are narrow, making it challenging for visitors. Japan has many well-designed visitor zones that foster a vibrant atmosphere, which is something Macau can learn from,” he said.
*The Cantonese term “冰室” can be transliterated into English as “bing sutt.”
“冰” (bing) means “ice.”
“室” (sutt) means “room” or “shop.”
So, “冰室” (“bing sutt”) traditionally refers to a type of old-style Hong Kong café that serves drinks, snacks, and light meals, often with a focus on cold beverages. – DeepSeek
Former Macau chief executive Ho Iat Seng (right) and Executive Vice Chairman of Sands China Ltd. Wilfred Wong Ying-wai (left) visit Chan Iat Seng’s (centre) “bing sutt” on Rua das Estalagens last December. – Photos provided by Chan
